Wild and Ecologically Diverse, The Okavango Delta Shines At Least For Now

Gliding silently through the winding channels of the Okavango Delta, I felt a bit nervous. Our mokoro canoe, a type of dugout canoe skillfully guided by a local poler, sliced through the murky waters as we navigated past water lilies. But the large pod of hippos standing at the shore not too far away dampened the soothing atmosphere. The remaining serenity was suddenly broken by a loud splash and grunt – a reminder that we were sharing these waters with some of Africa’s most formidable creatures.

“Hippos,” our guide Kelly, adorned in a pink polka-dotted bathrobe, whispered, gesturing to the dominant male leading the others into the waters. His dark eyes were intent on us, and he opened his toothy mouth into a massive yawn of warning. “We’ll give them a wide berth.”

Botswana’s UNESCO World Heritage Site

Botswana still boasts impressive amounts of wild areas. But this vast inland river delta, spanning over 5,800 square miles, is a marvel of nature and a UNESCO World Heritage site. Formed where the Okavango River empties into a tectonic trough in the central Kalahari, this singular ecosystem supports an incredible diversity of wildlife.

The Okavango Delta didn’t always exist. It formed around 60,000 years ago when seismic activity blocked the river’s course to the sea. The fault lines of the East African Rift, a major fracture in the earth from millions of years ago, caused the Okavango River to spread across the Kalahari, creating a lush oasis in an otherwise arid landscape.

We decided to camp there among the hippos, families of elephants, roaming giraffes, antelope, and the lions who roared into the night. Traveling with Intrepid Travel, it was as close as a person can get to experiencing the Delta as it has been for thousands of years – still wild, home to some of the most biologically diverse life on the planet, and primitive as can be.

Becoming One with the Wild

Our days in the delta were filled with walking safaris led by local guides in the early mornings or late afternoons when the winter sun was at its least punishing. We rose early, the air crisp and still frigid from the night. We followed our Botswanan guides soaking in their knowledge of the land and its inhabitants. Along the way, they pointed out tracks and signs I would have missed entirely. They spotted darting warthogs and herds of zebra in the distance and warned us about the dozens of aardvark holes that could snap an ankle or leg.

One morning, as we rounded a bend in the path, a family of giraffes emerged from a stand of acacia trees, their long necks swaying gracefully as they moved. In the soft light of the rising sun, their dappled coats seem to shimmer. A bit farther away, we came across the bleached bones of a giraffe, perhaps one of the unlucky members of the family we just saw.

In the evenings, the elephants wandered openly, keeping their frisky young ones tucked safely between them. The sight of animals one usually only sees in zoos walking about in their natural habitats served as a constant reminder that wild places do still exist.

Okavango Delta – A Landscape of Challenges

But the Okavango Delta isn’t just a place of beauty – it’s also a landscape of challenges. Climate change and upstream development threaten this delicate ecosystem. As we walked along tracks made from elephants and lions, our local guide explained how changing rainfall patterns affect water levels and wildlife migration. It’s a sobering reminder of the fragility of even the most seemingly untouched places.

A 2018 study published in the journal “Global and Planetary Change” found that the delta has experienced a 1.5°C increase in temperature over the past 50 years, outpacing global averages. This warming trend is altering the rain patterns and increasing evaporation rates, potentially leading to reduced water flow into the delta.

The news gets even more dire. Research from the University of Botswana suggests that by 2050, the Delta could see a 20% reduction in water during flood seasons, dramatically impacting wildlife habitats and biodiversity. Furthermore, a 2020 report by the Intergovernmental Panel on Climate Change (IPCC) warns that continued warming could lead to more frequent and severe droughts in the region, threatening the Delta’s ability to support its rich ecosystem.

Efforts to mitigate climate change impacts on the Okavango Delta are multifaceted. The Botswana government, in partnership with international organizations, has implemented the Okavango Delta Management Plan, which focuses on sustainable resource management and conservation. This includes stricter regulations on water usage, reforestation projects, and the promotion of climate-smart agriculture in surrounding areas.

Additionally,  institutions like the Okavango Research Institute are conducting ongoing studies to better understand the Delta’s hydrology and ecology, informing adaptive management strategies. A promising initiative is the use of satellite technology to monitor water levels and vegetation changes, allowing for more rapid response to environmental shifts.

The Challenges of Human and Wildlife Conflict

Human-wildlife conflict remains a pressing issue in the Okavango region. A study published in the “Journal of Wildlife Management” in 2019 reported an increase in elephant-human conflicts as changing water patterns force animals to venture closer to human settlements.

To address this, conservationists are implementing innovative solutions such as beehive fences, which have shown an 80% success rate in deterring elephants from crops in pilot studies. Farmers around the delta primarily grow millet. However, government land grants didn’t account for Botswana’s elephant migration routes.
In Muan, the Okavango Craft Brewery, founded by eco-researchers Dr. Graham and Anna McCulloch of the NGO eCoexist, is pioneering conservation and sustainable development. Because Okavango Delta area is home to about 18,000 elephants and an equal number of people, leading to potential conflicts.

Elephants navigating their ancient migratory paths often pass through 14 villages, disrupting daily life, including children’s school commutes.

Strategies to Mitigate Human-Wildlife Conflict

eCoexist works to mitigate human-wildlife conflict through various strategies, such as solar-powered electric fences, beehives (a natural elephant deterrent), and chili-infused barriers to protect crops. They also track matriarch elephants with GPS collars to inform land-use planning, ensuring elephant corridors are considered in residential and agricultural plots.

“We can’t ask farmers to move, nor can we ask elephants to avoid these areas,” McCulloch said. “With 70% of our country being desert, we must share the remaining 30% with these magnificent animals.”

The Okavango Craft Brewery, established in 2019, sources millet from local farmers who practice elephant-friendly farming. By paying a premium price for this millet, the brewery supports conservation efforts and provides a sustainable income for the community.

“We buy millet from around 85 farmers at a premium price to reward their conservation efforts,” McCulloch said.

The brewery’s Delta Lager, made with up to 58% locally sourced millet, supports the region’s economy and showcases how conservation and commerce can coexist. After our rustic nights in the Okavango, the beer tasted as sweet as marula fruit.

Learning To Live With the Wild

The importance of preserving the Okavango Delta cannot be overstated. As one of the world’s largest inland deltas, it serves as a critical carbon sink, with its peatlands storing an estimated 1.7 billion tons of carbon. Moreover, the delta supports the livelihoods of over 200,000 people and is home to numerous endangered species.

In the evenings at camp, we sat around the campfire, swapping stories and marveling at the star-studded African sky. The Milky Way stretched overhead, more vivid than I’ve ever seen it. In the distance, we heard the low grunting rumble of hippos. Later, in the dead of night, one wandered into camp as we huddled within our tents.

On our final morning, we took one last mokoro ride past the pod of hippos, their eyes and nostrils just breaking the surface. I was certain they were pretty sick of our group by then. And I felt that familiar flutter of nervousness. These massive creatures, despite their comical appearance, are among Africa’s most dangerous animals. They account for more deaths than the other “Big 5” combined.

But Kelly, still barefoot and bedecked in her robe, navigated us safely past. The 30-minute trip along the water to where our ride awaited gave me time to reflect on the contradictions of the Okavango Delta. It’s a place of incredible beauty and ever-present danger. It’s a place of lush abundance amid an unforgiving desert. And, it serves as a reminder of nature’s resilience and its delicate vulnerability.

Although I was glad to get back to a shower and a real toilet, I knew I was lucky to experience the Delta in its most native form. With the help of organizations like eCoexist, I hold hope that it stays that way.

 

Click here for discounted accommodations on the Okavango Delta in Botswana.