Sometimes, I can’t pinpoint a place’s resounding sense until the end of a trip. But on my first night in Serbia, I discover its song immediately. I’m having dinner at Restoran Velika Skadarlija, a traditional tavern—known as a Serbian “kafana”—that’s deceivingly spacious, with white tablecloths and a bright interior. As I settle in for dinner, the folk band Tamburica 5 forms a semi-circle around my table, and I hear Serbia’s trademark tamburica before I learn its name.

I met Lily one early January morning at a donut shop off the highway, about a 30-minute drive from Oaxaca City. Lily introduced herself to our small tour group — me and a family of four from Minnesota. She would be leading us for the day, as we visited some of the "must-sees" of Oaxaca. This included the scenic mineral springs and waterfalls of Hierve el Agua, the Zapotec archaeological site of Mitla, lunch at a local spot for memelas, and a visit to a locally owned and run mezcal distillery.

A short flight southeast of Mexico City, the state of Oaxaca holds a mysterious allure for those who travel Latin America. Its culturally rich tapestry may be little more than a blip on the radar of those seeking glitzy beach resorts in Cancun, Los Cabos, and Puerto Vallarta. However, for those seeking authenticity, Oaxaca has no rival. Twenty distinct ethnic groups reside in the state. And, a full third of the population speaks an indigenous dialect.