Aiken, South Carolina: Where History and Horses Merge

During the Gilded Age, wealthy Northerners came to Aiken, South Carolina for the warm weather, spring water, and pine-scented air. The railroad arrived here in 1830, and the Northerners followed. They established what became known as their Winter Colony. Stories of these well-heeled guests add to the charm of this Southern gem.

Negotiating for the Aiken Railroad

I took a Tailored Tour with Marty Bailey to learn more about the Winter Colony. We drove by one of the oldest houses in Aiken, the Colonial Revival home called Chinaberry, and learned how the railroad arrived. Initially a farming community, Aiken needed a railroad. When Charleston got the first railroad, Chinaberry’s owner, Dr. William Williams, met with William Aiken, Sr., president of the South Carolina Canal and Railroad Company, and offered a portion of his land for the train route. Aiken sent a survey crew led by Alfred Dexter. Dexter said it was too hilly for the train to come there. Meanwhile, he became infatuated with Dr. Williams’ daughter, Sarah.  When Dexter asked Dr. Williams for Sarah’s hand, he replied, “I’d love to have you as a son-in-law. If only I had a railroad.” On 9/2/1833, Aiken got its train. Dexter married Sarah, and everyone was happy.

Historic Chinaberry Photo: Kathleen Walls

Joining the Elite at The Willcox Hotel

The Vanderbilts, Asters, and their friends swooped down on that railroad. While building their “cottages,” they frequented hotels like The Willcox. A butler greeted guests at the door of The Willcox and looked to see if they were wearing handmade shoes or store-bought. If they were “well heeled,” he gave a signal to the desk clerk, who then greeted them and rented them a room. If not, another signal directed the clerk to inform the would-be guest, “Sorry, we’re full.” I guess my shoes passed because I stayed at The Willcox.

The hotel was built in the late 19^th century. Entering the lobby, with walls of curly-pine paneling and exposed ceiling beams, is like stepping into an English gentleman’s club of that era.

Dining at The Willcox provides another upscale experience. I had breakfast twice and loved both the Willcox Breakfast of two eggs sunny side up, bacon, smashed potato, and toast and my Belgian Waffle topped with fresh fruit, whipped cream, and served with maple syrup. You can dine in the restaurant or the lobby at a table near the fireplace and enjoy the ambience.

Besides a comfortable bed and all the modern amenities, my room included a fireplace and a long window seat looking out to where the train once brought the winter residents.

Our guide shared the story of one famous guest. President Franklin Roosevelt’s train, going to his Warm Springs winter retreat, would suspiciously break down behind the hotel. This “misfortune” led Roosevelt to ride an elevator to the third floor and spend some time with his lady love, Lucy Mercer. The train wouldn’t be repaired until the next day.

The Willcox Hotel Lobby Photo: Kathleen Walls

A Historic Church Meets a Legendary Singer

Aiken’s stories continue in its historic buildings. Built in 1905 to replace a smaller chapel, the Gothic Revival-style St. Mary Help of Christians Church boasts two towers. One features a pitched roof, and the other has a 120-foot-tall white/silver spire topped with a gold cross.

With so many celebrities in town, they often went unnoticed. On Easter Sunday, 1960, at St. Mary Help of Christians Church, one gentleman decided to join the choir. When he went upstairs to the choir loft, the director said, “I’m sorry, you’re going to have to leave; this is only for choir members.”

The gentleman—who happened to be Bing Crosby—apologized for the intrusion and went back to his seat. After mass, the director realized who he was. The following Sunday, she posted a sign that read “choir loft for choir members and Bing Crosby only.”

Bing Crosby came back to sing with the choir.

Historic Rose Hill Photo: Kathleen Walls

Stories From Aiken’s Historic Homes

In Aiken, many historic homes include ghost stories. Rose Hill was built in the early 1900s for Colonel Sheffield Phelps and his wife, on the foundation of an antebellum house destroyed during the Civil War Battle of Aiken. The cottage boasts over 20 rooms, and the grounds include stables, a garage, greenhouses, and kennels for their West Highland Terriers. The kennel included a kitchen so the cooks could prepare fresh meals for the dogs.

Our tour guide shared a story of the time she worked there when the property was a hotel and restaurant. “I would be in the main home, all the doors locked. The rest of the crew would be down in the stables, when a woman’s voice would call out my name. At first, I thought it was the owner’s mother. But there was nobody in the house. Then I found out from other employees who had been there before that they believe it’s the spirit of Mrs. Phelps. They believe she’s still hanging around, and when she knows your name, she calls it. She’s had family members who were here after she passed who would also see her and scare the dickens out of them, too!”

Rose Hill now has new owners who hope to reopen the property as a B&B and restaurant…served with a side of ghostly experiences.

The Aiken County Historical Museum occupies another historic home, Banksia. Richard Howe, who married the daughter of the president of International Harvester, expanded this small farmhouse and threw elaborate parties. Fred Astaire often entertained party guests here. Also, the Duke and Duchess of Windsor visited Banksia. It now contains three floors of memorabilia.

Aiken Thoroughbred Racing Hall of Fame and Museum Photo: Shutterstock

Delve into Aiken’s Equestrian History at Hopelands Gardens

The Aiken Thoroughbred Racing Hall of Fame and Museum is a must-see for visitors.  Lisa Hall, museum coordinator and fountain of knowledge about racehorses, showed us around. Located at Hopelands Gardens, the museum exhibits photos and memorabilia of the 40 thoroughbreds that were trained at Aiken Training Track and won national races.

Hope Goddard Iselin was a prominent member of the family that founded Brown University. She was the first American woman to compete as a crew member in the America’s Cup yacht race. She died in 1970 at 102 and left Hopelands Gardens to Aiken.

Her home was demolished, but three original structures remain: the carriage house now Aiken Thoroughbred Racing Hall of Fame, the Doll House, and the caretaker’s cottage. The Doll House was a playhouse and schoolhouse for the Iselin children and now serves as the home of the Aiken Garden Club Council.

Canopied by 100-year-old live oaks, the gardens feature an amphitheater, a reflection pool, and three magnificent fountains on the former home’s foundation. Wildlife also visit these enticing gardens.

Hopelands Garden Photo: Kathleen Walls

Joining Aiken’s Polo Scene

To get a complete picture of the equestrian tradition that still prevails, we had breakfast with Lisa Hall at the Track Kitchen, where the grooms responsible for managing the care of the horses often eat.

We also visited Legacy Stable, where Brad Stauffer told us about training racehorses. A visit to the grave of one of Aiken’s most famous horses was especially memorable.  The grandson of Man o’ War—considered the greatest racehorse ever—Blue Peter was bred and raced by Joseph M. Roebling. He won the Belmont Futurity Stakes and the Hopeful Stakes at two years old, earning him American Champion Two-year-old Colt honors. While preparing for the Kentucky Derby in 1948. Blue Peter succumbed to sickness and died at age four. He’s buried at Aiken Training Track under a huge oak tree.

Of course, no visit to Aiken is complete without a polo match, so we watched one and later dined at local favorites, The Feed Sack and Good Girl Brewing Co., named in honor of the owner’s late dog, Kate.

Click Here for Discounted Accommodations in Aiken, South Carolina