Discover Aiken, South Carolina: Where Southern Charm is Not Gone with the Wind

The surprising southern town of Aiken, South Carolina’s intriguing history includes Native American culture, defining Civil War battles, and a railroad, once considered the world’s longest, that arrived here from coastal Charleston in 1833. After the Civil War, Aiken became a magnet for wealthy northerners. Among them were the Whitneys and Vanderbilts—who were keen on equestrian sports. They called Aiken the “Original Winter Colony.” Southerners flocked here, too, as monied folks from the coast fled malarial areas seeking a wellness retreat. In the name of charm, they all left their mark here.

South Carolina’s Thoroughbred Horse Country

Big fun awaits in this small town best known as South Carolina’s thoroughbred horse country. One of its pinnacles is the twice-a-year (March and November) Aiken Steeplechase Championship. Established in 1939,  the steeplechase origin dates back to the 18th-century Ireland equine events, where riders would race from town to town using church steeples. At the time, those church steeples were the most visible point in each town, making them ideal starting and ending points.

Aiken offers quite the party, too. Celebrations include human stick-horse races, a hound’s parade, and corgi races. A hat and crazy pants contest highlights the lavish pageantry of equestrian fashion flair. There is plenty of room to roam freely and frolic with cigar-smoking folks on this racecourse’s 140 acres.

Keeping with the history of the steeplechase spirit, I hit The Willcox, a renowned hotel, restaurant, and spa, for an aperitif and intimate live music in Aiken’s upscale yet casual unofficial living room.

Aiken Discoveries Beyond the Horses

This small town haven offers much more than just horse-people merriment. The town itself doubles as a spectacular arboretum, with massive trees lining every street. The downtown is blessed with myriad wide-ranging storefronts, including fine dining and cultural opportunities. All align alongside wide avenues that make for a vibrant city center. It’s impressive that a town of 33,000 residents has a symphony and an Alvin Ailey Dance. There’s even a Juilliard connection that is brought to life via Joye in Aiken.

I enjoyed a deeper dive into history at the Aiken County Historical Museum, a mansion that was once part of the original old-northern-money sprawl of winter “cottages.” The collection at this as-is nostalgic, feel-good walk back in time includes a huge 1880s gas stove, a 1930s science-fiction-like hair-perm machine, a mini circus village, a 1910 telephone switchboard, and an 1883 Victorian wedding dress.

The 33-room maze on three levels also features an authentic 1949 Moody’s Drug Store enviro-exhibit reenactment, a historic post office, a former and beloved mayor’s office, as well as an 1880 fire truck in its same-period garage. This is also an ideal place to pick up a PASTPORT, which encourages exploring the history, art, and culture of Aiken County.

The Aiken Train Museum/Visitor’s Center is a resurrected archetypal train station with nine dioramas depicting eight towns in 1916 along a rail line built in 1830. A mini train visits each station.

Bed Down in History

This region is not only steeped in equine tradition, as the historic buildings speak for themselves. I stayed at the 37-room Carriage House Inn on a main street, where the sprawling ground floor is a multi-room living and dining area. This nicely broken-in inn retains much of its original 1872 style, with vintage furnishings, paintings, and knick-knacks. The comfy bygone period atmosphere gives it a true sense of place: a historic southern boutique hotel that’s far from cookie-cutter but offers complimentary cookies. The casual elegance continues outdoors with a veranda, complete with a fireplace and couches.

While more modern accommodations are located behind the house, I stayed on the second floor in an antique room above the lobby. Comfortable beds, a self-serve continental breakfast, and an attentive staff round out this sentimental journey.

You Won’t Go Hungry in Aiken

The bi-level Park Avenue Oyster Bar & Grille goes the distance with superb crab fritters, bluefin tuna, diver scallops. It also offers a far-reaching wine list including choice Argentinian Malbecs. The signature roasted oysters are blended with spinach, bacon, and parmesan cream at this neighborhood must-visit.

Feed Sack’s shopping center locale cloaks its 9,000-square-foot multi-room enormity and inviting equestrian atmosphere. Its unique ambiance includes a nightly piano player. Entirely Savvy Home furnished (that’s a neighboring furniture store), boasts a chunky seven-page cocktail menu that complements this getaway’s hearty Americana menu.

New Moon Café is a groovy, locals-with-dogs kind of place serving organic Ethiopian and Sumatran coffee. The Polo Grounds Café breakfast menu stars crepes and berry smoothies. In contrast,  the simpler What’s Cookin Downtown shares diner-style portions and fun for all.

The Cork and Cap wine shop, a house across the street from the Carriage House Inn, is a great place for live music while enjoying a bottle of wine as you lounge outdoors on the bottle shop’s front lawn. This getaway has two firepits that blazed while musician Josephine Johnson delighted the crowd. Johnson is the author of the “One Tank Trip” column for the Savannah Morning News. Meeting her at the Polo Grounds Café was a testament to the kind of interesting and talented people you can meet while in Aiken.

For more details, peruse Visit Aiken SC and Thoroughbred Country South Carolina.

 

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