Manchester, Vermont: Small Town Charm, History, Art and More

A picturesque four-season getaway, Manchester, Vermont (pop 4,500) typifies classic Vermont small-town charm. It possesses an edge that moves it beyond historic architecture in a beautiful mountain setting. All within close proximity, there’s way more to do here than meets the eye. You’ll find luxe resort options, fine and healthy dining, wellness offerings, world-class art, beguiling American history, and a new way to interpret off-roading.

The town was chartered in 1761 by a colonial governor who named new towns after renowned English aristocrats of that time, hoping they’d become benefactors of their namesakes. Laid out in 1784, the town was ideal for grazing, so by 1839, 6,000 sheep rambled the hillsides and pastures. Other industries followed including lumber companies, iron mines, marble quarries and mills. Following the Civil War, Manchester evolved into a prosperous resort area, which endures today. It’s telling that the storied American Museum of Fly Fishing (iconic rods, flies, and angling-related art) sits down the road from the world-class Southern Vermont Arts Center. And 15-minutes away, there’s archetypal skiing at Bromley and Stratton—among the first ski resorts to allow snowboarding. Jake Burton, founder of Burton Snowboards, perfected snowboard design in his garage in Manchester. Boredom here is not an option.

Discover Hildene: The Lincoln Family Home

Hildene, The Lincoln Family Home Photo: Bruce Northam

Alluring country road options surround Manchester. One of them leads to Hildene, The Lincoln Family Home, the Georgian Revival mansion-estate of Abraham Lincoln’s son Robert. Built as a summer home at the turn of the 20th century, it became his ancestral home. The 412-acre domain with its mansion-museum and historic buildings, includes formal gardens, a farm, an observatory, a carriage barn, and a handsome welcome center. Onsite goats and beehives allow them to make their own goat cheese, goat soap, and honey…all sold in the welcome center.

Also, at Hildene, you can behold the mirror that hung in Abraham Lincoln’s White House dressing room where he likely saw the last reflection of himself before leaving for an evening at Ford’s Theater. It is one of only two pieces of furniture that Mrs. Lincoln took from the White House after his death. Appropriately, it’s positioned above Abe’s stovepipe hat. Despite extensive research, I can’t identify the second piece of furniture Mrs. Lincoln took from the White House after Abe’s death.

The Pullman Train Car at Hildene

The Pullman Company helped to give rise to the Black middle class.

Another treasure on campus, the family’s original 1903 Pullman train car, the Sunbeam, shares a peek into what qualified as ultra-luxury in the last century. Oh yeah, at the time, Robert was president of the Pullman Company, the largest manufacturing corporation in the country.

Part of the Pullman exhibit provides a weighty, thought-provoking, and difficult look at the paradox of the Pullman porters—a very demanding job regarded by those in the Black community as one of prestige. In spite of the long hours and low pay, the Pullman Company helped to give rise to the Black middle class. Porters enhanced their worldly knowledge by reading newspapers and books left behind by passengers. Because they were now traveling around the country, they were able to establish a national network of African-American communications. Witnessing the possibilities as well as the inequities, the porters also observed and emulated the dress, mannerisms, and ambitions of the wealthy Pullman clientele. This exhibit shares important lessons about yesterday, today, and the future.

The Equinox Golf Resort & Spa

History is surely not lost on the four-season Equinox Golf Resort & Spa Photo: Bruce Northam

Manchester’s inviting centerpiece, The Equinox Golf Resort & Spa, sits handsomely cradled by the Green Mountains. This landmark is a bit deceiving as to what it presents from the main road—a stately and sprawling campus of 200-guestrooms, three dynamic dining experiences, and a comfy jigsaw puzzle of colonnades, inviting lawns, patios, period fireplaces, and countless seating nooks. Although it’s a big operation, the staff honors the homey feel that you’ll surely notice.

History is surely not lost on the four-season Equinox getaway. Founded in 1769, the property played host to American Revolutionaries (Manchester was once the UK’s leading producer of cotton and textiles), U.S. presidents (Taft, Grant, Harrison, and Teddy Roosevelt all stayed here), and generations of Vermont-style thrill-seekers. Amid a magical valley village, this woody bedrock-beauty features all the usual suspects of a countryside resort: world-class fly fishing, dirt-road detours, an epic golf course, tennis courts, and a spa. The roomy Marsh Tavern provides the place for a hearty breakfast, while the Falcon Bar sits adjacent to a generous outdoor hang zone with a firepit. Here, most of “downtown’s” lifestyle and dining options exist within walking distance.

The resort enjoys epic views of soaring Mt. Equinox, which is literally in its backyard. Just down the road, you can easily summit it in your car via the Skyline Drive, a winding and photo-friendly five-mile ascent on the longest private paved road in the U.S. Atop, the 360-views behold the mountains of Vermont, New York, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, and, on clear days, Canada. Up here, you really get a sense of Manchester’s awesomeness.

Southern Vermont Arts Center

Southern Vermont Art Center: When a museum’s window-scape also qualifies as art Photo: Bruce Northam

The 100-acre epic mountainside campus of  Southern Vermont Arts Center (SVAC) is one of the approaches to Mt. Equinox and blessed with 10 acres reserved for an atmospheric modern-sculpture garden. SVAC’s one-of-a-kind setting showcases groundbreaking curation with disparate materials and includes 300 community-artist members. It has various exhibits, a performance space, lectures and classes, and sprawling grounds with forest paths. A second building, Yester House, boasts nine exhibition rooms by regional artists. To top it off, its inviting CurATE Café’s artisanal menu and locale also offer terrific woodsy-mountain views.

The Land Rover Experience Vermont

Land Rover Experience Vermont Photo: Bruce Northam

We drove into the wild side via a Land Rover Experience Vermont that honed our skills on hill climbs, side tilts, and crazy-rocky terrain. It is one of only three such centers in the U.S. Our tarantula-like foray into the sweeping Green Mountains was set at a mellow expedition-speed-style crawl, where we could truly experience the vehicle’s sense of luxury and capability. After a brief introduction and lesson, I took over the wheel and gained a new understanding of the limitations of my alien-green KIA Soul. Afterwards, we got our classic sit-down deli sandwich fix at Charlie’s Coffee House, which also goes the distance with baked goods and coffee.

Southern Inspired Food in Vermont

Pearl’s Place & Pantry’s southern-inspired food Photo: Bruce Northam

For a change of pace, we hit Pearl’s Place & Pantry for southern-inspired food. It was immediately apparent that even Vermonters can impart true southern hospitality. The ultra-personable staff, joyous even, aim to please, and will likely rave about the chef’s frequent use of Peruvian teardrop peppers. Options included stuffed avocado with shrimp and crab salad, diver sea scallops with sweet corn puree, and honey-stung southern fried chicken. As a soup devotee, I recommend the split pea with mirepoix. This place is fun.

Delights in Nearby Historic Dorset, VT

Five miles away via a scenic country road, the olden village of Dorset has at least three shining dining attractions. The Barrows House restaurant—part of the Inns at Dorset—is a classic Vermont highly styled tavern. A nifty old house, really. Cozy country-style elegance is just a descriptive start. There’s no rush here. Settle in with its old steakhouse menu also featuring duck, world-champion clam chowder, and dazzling non-alcoholic cocktails. An absolutely earthy non-corporate experience not to be forgotten awaits. Down the road, try the Dorset Inn (1796) for breakfast in a maple-syrup-scented fireplace zone. Better yet, make a beeline for the healthy-eating-made-fun Dorset Bakery, which redefines rustic allure and doubles as a chatty community center.

Detour to West Arlington, VT

Norman Rockwell’s Studio Photo: Bruce Northam

West Arlington is more than a delightful wide-valley drive along the Battenkill River. Here, the former home and painting studio of esteemed artist Norman Rockwell has been transformed into Rockwell’s Retreat, a 1792 farmhouse updated into an inviting inn with eight distinct guest rooms (600-thread count sheets, custom-made mattresses) and gourmet breakfasts.

Tiny West Arlington is also homebase for Trico Unlimited, the gold standard for fly-fishing enthusiasts and novices. Founder and Orvis-endorsed guide Brew Moscarello boasts an impressive 40-year fishing history in Vermont, making him a leading expert in this niche outdoor artform.

Getting to Manchester, Vermont

“Life as it should be” — Norman Rockwell Photo: Bruce Northam

Saddled by gorgeous mountain ranges hosting endless ramble-about options, Manchester delivers the good life. Get started on your dream Vermont experience via ManchesterVermont.com. Getting from NYC to Manchester is a cinch via Amtrak to the Rensselaer, NY station. From there, an easy bus transfer by Vermont Transit delivers you to Manchester. It’s all via one Amtrak booking.

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