Teh Chin Liang

Unlike in most parts of Europe, the alpine frontier in Bhutan begins at around 4,000 meters above sea level. These windswept plateaus, made up of vast rugged terrain, are not only home to the highlanders but also a treasure trove of biodiversity — stunted firs and dwarf rhododendrons, blue sheep, marmots, takins, snow leopards, and, most notably, yaks and the highly sought-after golden fungus (Cordyceps sinensis), which are the pulse and lifeblood of the highland economy.

The ubiquitous street art, depicting portraits of Ho Chi Minh, flying pigeons, and people waving the national flag, reminded me that this year marks the 50th anniversary of Vietnam’s reunification in 1975.

In my broken Thai, I pointed toward the water and looked at the boatman. “Bua?” I asked. "Bua" means lotus in Thai. I tried to mimic the local accent and used a hand gesture, hoping he would understand and take me to see the flowers. He nodded and smiled, mumbled a string of words that I could not understand, and steered the boat into the open water, still shrouded in morning fog. The boat slowly pierced through the dissipating mist, eerily silent, like something out of a sci-fi movie. Before us, a sea of pink lotuses started to unfold, bit by bit, like a watercolor painting coming to life with each brushstroke. It was surreal, almost like a dream, yet it was real. My jaw dropped in awe when the scene finally unfolded in its entirety.

I ran my tongue around my lips and tasted the lingering flavor of curry and the remnants of spices from masala tea. The morning air was thick with the woody scent of incense sticks. A breeze rustled by. I stopped and took in the grassy scent of banana leaves and a faint whiff of freshly plucked flowers as I began my experience at Thaipusam in Penang.

A long table runs parallel to the exquisite dining hall, flanked by two rows of diners sitting across from each other. A scattered murmur of conversation halts the moment Nina Backman takes her seat. What looks like a regular banquet is a gathering where dining takes a backseat. This two-hour performative dining experience revolves around senses and silence.