Houmas House – More than a Plantation

Houmas House sits gracefully along a bend of the Mississippi River, on land once inhabited by the Houmas Indians. Over thousands of years, the river shaped this area with fertile soil, transforming it into one of the South’s most productive agricultural regions. By the late 1700s, European settlers recognized the land’s potential. They began transforming it into a thriving plantation, launching an era of sugarcane farming that would become central to the property’s history.

Today, the restored estate highlights this rich past—from its Native American origins and farming traditions to its antebellum success and recent renewal. Guests explore carefully arranged rooms, elegant gardens, and preserved buildings, all of which reveal how the river, the land, and generations of people have shaped this landmark over time.

Houmas House comprises the Houmas House Mansion and Gardens, the Great River Road Museum, and several restaurants and lounges. Guests can stay overnight in on-site cottages.

The Mansion’s Story

Houmas House’s history began with Frenchman Alexander Latil and Irishman Maurice Conway, who purchased the land around 1774 from the Houmas people. The first big house dates to about 1829, when Revolutionary War General Wade Hampton enlarged the original structure.

John Burnside, the Irish owner from the late 1850s into the early 1880s, was the wealthiest of the owners. He expanded sugar production and became known as the “Sugar Prince.” With over 800 enslaved people, Burnside Plantation, as it was then known, was “the largest slave-holding in Louisiana,” according to the National Park Service.

About 40% of the house is the original structure, and almost everything is antique from the mid- to late-1800s. The woodwork, crystal chandeliers, marble fireplace mantle, mahogany dining table, and some China are original to the house.

One of my favorite rooms was a guest room in the 1800s, named “The Betty Davis Room” for actress Betty Davis, who stayed in it during the filming of Hush Hush Sweet Charlotte. Other movies filmed here include the 1989 Chevy Chase comedy Fletch Lives and The Green Book.

Houmas House once served as the scene of a duel between sitting Louisiana Gov. Claiborne and rival Daniel Clark in 1807. Other notable guests include Princess Margaret, the sister of England’s Queen Elizabeth II, Teddy Roosevelt, and Andrew Jackson.

700-Year-Old Southern Oak Photo: Kathleen Walls

Houmas Gardens

Touring the Houmas Gardens, our guide pointed to an enormous oak tree estimated to be 600 years old and noted that another Southern live oak by the turtle barn is about 700 years old.  The gardens span about 38 acres and are filled with indigenous plants, colorful exotics, and numerous sculptures and water features. There are many cozy seating areas, and it’s not unusual to spot swans, geese, and turkeys.

The Great River Road Museum

Entering the Great River Road Museum, an eye-catching exhibit shows Mark Twain steering a steamboat overhead. Step further into the museum, and you are overwhelmed by the realism of the exhibits that tell the story of Louisiana’s River Road.

One unusual exhibit shows Napoleon learning that the Louisiana Purchase agreement had been signed. Two aides tell him as he’s taking a bath.

The museum houses the world’s most extensive pipe collection. Before Abraham Lincoln’s presidency, pipes indicated which political candidate you supported. The exhibit features the “campaign pipes” of every president from Washington to Lincoln.

Another fascinating exhibit on illness and death features primitive medical devices and medicines from the early 1800s.

A nostalgic exhibit, Mr. Bingle—a snowman with an ice cream cone hat, holly wings, a candy cane, and blue eyes—began as a window display at the New Orleans Maison Blanche store in 1847. He became an iconic tradition, even having a seasonal TV show.

As a kid roaming New Orleans’ Canal Street around Christmas, I always stopped at Maison Blanche’s windows to see Mr. Bingle. Years later, when the Ritz-Carlton bought the former Maison Blanche building, they knew nothing about Mister Bingle. When they found him in a vault in the building, they threw him away. A friend of Kevin Kelly—today’s owner of the Houmas Mansion—saw Mr. Bingle in the dumpster, jumped in, and got him out. Now, the iconic snowman resides at the Great River Roads Museum.

Medical Exhibit in the Great River Road Museum Photo: Kathleen Walls

Facing the Reality of Slavery

Not all exhibits on display in the Great River Road Museum have a happy ending. The Africans in Louisiana exhibit shares the story of slavery in Louisiana. One exhibit depicts a heartbreaking scene from an auction in which the auctioneer is selling a Black man. His two children with his wife are kneeling before the auctioneer, saying, “Please don’t auction our daddy off!”

If You Go

There are several dining options on-site. Dixie Café is the perfect place to enjoy a hearty breakfast. I enjoyed their lunch buffet, which included chicken andouille gumbo, crawfish Alfredo pasta, a fantastic chocolate bread pudding, and many more choices. The café also offers an à la carte menu.

An upscale dining experience, Latil’s Landing Restaurant offers a five-course menu with wine pairings starting with Black Truffle and Champagne Soup.

For casual dining, consider The Carriage House Restaurant, which offers tasty dishes from Po-Boys to steak. If you’re looking for a place to relax with a drink, visit the Turtle Bar.

Extend your visit with a stay at The Inn—a collection of 21 cottages nestled among ancient oaks. The cottages depict historic structures from Uncle Sam Plantation, located downriver from Houmas House. Each cottage exudes the feel of an old plantation home, with either a single king or queen-size bed or double rooms with two queen beds, luxurious bathrooms, and a columned porch. Naturally, they have all the modern amenities. A breakfast buffet for two is also included.

All the rooms are handicap accessible.

Cottages for Guests Photo: Kathleen Walls

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