Explore Canada’s 1000 Islands

Don’t be afraid to roam out of bounds–especially when a peak international experience awaits nearby, without hassles. Canada, the world’s second-largest country, boasts an endless array of geographic personalities and numerous undiscovered cultural gems. One of them, Gananoque (Gah-Na-No-Quay), an alluring border town midway between Toronto and Montreal, sits on the 1000 Islands portion of the giant-lake-resembling St. Lawrence River. The U.S. and Canada share these islands within an especially gorgeous segment of the world’s longest undefended border. Phew.

You can see the U.S. mainland from Gananoque. You can also see it from many of the 1,000 Islands, a 50-mile stretch due east from Lake Ontario. During the last Ice Age, this terrain was carved under a mile-and-a-half thick glacier, resulting in today’s magical UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, where half of the seemingly endless rocky islands, great and small, are sprinkled with waterfront mansions, cottages, trees, and stories.

Despite recent diplomatic stumbles, Americans are still warmly greeted in these parts. As a sagely local woman noted, “The parents are fighting, but the kids are alright.” Thankfully, frank Canadians are not big on sugar-coating personal expression, ay.

First rate Canadian actors in the Thousand Islands Playhouse performing “The Drawer Boy” Photo: Bruce Northam

Experience Gananoque Culture

Gananoque is not short on culture. My partner, Heather, and I kicked things off with a riveting three-man play, “The Drawer Boy,” at the waterfront Thousand Islands Playhouse. The 360-seat playhouse, which CBC Radio calls “The most charming theatre in Canada,” is home to two historic side-by-side venues that present 220 consecutive performances each season. Every season’s programming features 100 percent professional Canadian talent–designers, directors, scenic artists, and performers–while Canadians write 80 percent of content.

My visit coincided with events associated with Culture Days, an annual arts festival featuring the Gan Arts Fest Fish Tales’ variety of live music and storytelling performed by its talentrf community. Touristy in a likable way, Gananoque overflows with handsome neighborhood architecture, museums, festivals, and a second main street theater.

Boldt Castle is a six story landmark and is one of the most-visited mansions in the US and Canada. Photo: Bruce Northam

Cruising the World’s Longest Unprotected Border

City Cruises offers a fun narrated five-hour round-trip cruise (from Gananoque) on a three-level ship that includes a two-hour stopover at the famous Boldt Castle, built in 1900. The cruise weaves through the islands, often crossing into American waters, to the turnaround point, the world-famous 27-room Rhineland-style Boldt Castle on New York’s Heart Island, which is adjacent to mainland Alexandria Bay, NY. It’s the fulfillment of George Boldt’s vision, who came to America in 1864 at the age of 13 from Prussia (now Germany). Once penniless, Boldt rose to fame and fortune as the proprietor of NYC’s Waldorf Astoria Hotel. He left an enduring six-story legacy landmark, a masonry castle that remains one of the largest private and most-visited mansions in the United States and Canada.

For 73 years, the castle and other stone structures were left exposed to harsh winter weather and vandals. This once-magical campus became a place for mischief, graffiti, and lawless partying–a fact shared by a pal from nearby Massena, NY, who partied here, unsupervised, when he was a teen. Fortunately, an ongoing $60 million rehabilitation project began in 1977, when the Thousand Islands Bridge Authority purchased it for $1.

The island boasts four other architecturally notable masonry structures. Photo: Bruce Northam

Gananoque From Above

1000 Islands Helicopter Tours departs from a state-of-the-art facility in Gananoque and elevates your perspective of the 1000 Islands. You’ll soar over the region’s waterways, historic landmarks, and natural beauty–and realize what intimate neighbors the U.S. and Canada are and should remain.

Gananoque is Canada’s gateway to the 1000 Islands Photo: Bruce Northam

Ganaoque’s Variable Restaurants and Lodging

You can also eat your way through Ganaoque. The Maple Leaf Restaurant is an authentic Czech schnitzel house where there’s no rush working your way through varied schnitzels, borscht, or Pilsner Urquells. Riva is a merry high-end dining experience where you’ll likely hear some Michael Buble. Check out the area’s other dining and entertainment experiences.

You can hang your hat at the ideally located Comfort Inn and Suites. Alternatively, opt for a more intimate option that includes dining, such as the waterfront Gananoque Inn (featuring two outdoor balconies) or the guest rooms above the Stonewater Gastro Pub, located across the road. This authentic, old-UK-style pub and restaurant is a versatile entertainment spot with low doorways, creaky wooden floors, and stone hallways. There are also scores of other local, quaint lodgings.

The Cataraqui Trail is a 65-mile multi-use getaway upon a former railway bed. Photo: Bruce Northam

A Pedal and A Paddle on the Region’s Wild Side

Gananoque is a short drive from Ontario’s bucolic wilderness. Thirty minutes north of town, you’ll find an array of deep-forest opportunities to hike, bike, or boat in freshwater lakes and rivers. We enjoyed a rail-to-trail fantasy bike ride along Canada’s Cataraqui Trail on the resurrected Trans-Canadian National Railway.  The Cataraqui Trail offers a 65-mile multi-use getaway on a former railway bed. The hike or bike ride explores the wilderness and charming communities like Chaffey’s Lock, home of Rideau Tours, where you can also rent kayaks, canoes, and paddleboards.

No motorized vehicles are permitted on Eastern Ontario’s path to history, nature, and peace. This region is both a UNESCO Biosphere and a World Heritage Site. Later, kayaking in the Rideau waterways flanking the rail trail was a real treat.

Chaffey’s Lock is also home to the delightful Opinicon. This popular business opened its doors in the 1890s as a resort-style fishing lodge. It is now an inviting restaurant with a separately housed ice cream parlor. If you can’t stay, at least stop by for the homemade ice cream! Also, for a stroll–or a stay–on the wild side, stop by or consider the Riverboat Fantasy Airbnb, hosted by wizard-comedian-pirate Mike Duhamel. You’re gonna like it here!

For more information about Gananoque–Canada’s gateway to the 1000 Islands–head on over to 1000islandstourism.com.

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