Rapid City, South Dakota Beyond the Presidents

Rapid City, South Dakota Beyond the Presidents

Downtown Rapid City Native American Statue Photo: Visit Rapid City

Posted November 22, 2024

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It’s 6:30 a.m., and I’m shivering on an open swath of land in South Dakota’s Black Hills, waiting for a plastic balloon to determine the course of my day. Damien Mahony, co-owner and pilot at Black Hills Balloons, released a birthday party-style balloon into the morning’s wind — a method to help gauge whether our much larger hot air balloon will take flight.

The ride’s precursor seems almost too simple. But, when paired with other safety measures, it helps Mahony understand the patterns of the sky. As our litmus test blows into a rising storm cloud, I know our fate before he breaks the news. I can’t decide whether I’m relieved or disappointed, but when I return to the car, I know this: I certainly won’t be bored.

Black hills shots from the Black Hills National forest

Black Hills National Forest Photo: Visit Rapid City

More Than a Gateway Destination

I’m spending a few days in Rapid City, South Dakota, better known as the “City of Presidents” but perhaps best known by its flashier, nationally-recognized surroundings like Mount Rushmore and those pristine Black Hills. Even from the ground, I understand why the area attracts millions of tourists every year. The sprawling landscape and fresh air alone warrant Black Hill Balloons’ early morning call time

Not far from that field in Custer, two national parks — Wind Cave and Badlands — frame South Dakota’s Western region, while the 71,000-acre Custer State Park is of national park caliber. Then, there’s South Dakota’s most famous draws: yes, Mount Rushmore, as well as Crazy Horse, both of which crop up just south of Rapid City.

Within that impressive lineup, the actual city may seem like an afterthought or a backdrop for a history lesson. Yet while Rapid City leans into its presidential history — bronze, to-scale statues of American presidents line the streets — it never quite feels kitschy or caricatured.

Rather, Rapid City has sculpted its own name for itself, with overlapping histories, traditional and innovative restaurants, vibrant street murals, and local boutiques. These characteristics collectively define Rapid as more than a gateway destination, winking at the city’s reputation.

Rapid City Prairie Edge Trading Co. gallery floor.

Prairie Edge Trading Co. Photo: Visit Rapid City

Heritage and Histories

 In Rapid City, even a stroll down Main Street feels like an immersive history lesson. There’s something to learn at every corner, whether you’re stumbling into pieces of the Berlin Wall at Memorial Park or the stature of an American leader. (The country’s shortest president? James Madison, as evidenced by his 5’2 bronze statue.)

Beyond its presidential roots, South Dakota is home to nine Native American tribes, so Rapid City is brimming with opportunities to learn about Indigenous culture. You can visit artistic and sculptural sites such as the First Nations Sculpture Garden, and depending on the calendar, observe various celebrations and powwows, such as the annual Black Hills Powwow.

No matter your timing, make sure to stop inside Dakota Drum Company, which sells hide paintings, beaded artworks, and, of course, a variety of drums, among other Native American works of art, jewelry, and craft. Across the street, Prairie Edge showcases artworks from indigenous artists. While picking up a souvenir, get crafty with the store’s rows and rows of colorful beads.

Something Old, Something New

Cool vintage shops, cozy cafes, and one-of-a-kind clothing boutiques round out Rapid City’s on-trend and history-rich options. Nothing better encapsulates Downtown’s duality than its evolving restaurant scene, which simultaneously pushes the envelope while staying true to the classics.

In the morning, people flock to Tally’s Silver Spoon: a longstanding, self-proclaimed “fine diner,” owned by Le Cordon Bleu-trained Chef Benjamin Klinkel. Under various names, the diner has been a staple on Sixth Street since the 1930s.

Rapid City residents, however, seem to equally gravitate toward change. Artisanal bakery The Sour opened after the pandemic years and welcomes lines of people in search of morning buns and cinnamon rolls. A similar dichotomy materializes between 2007’s Delmonico Grill and 2021’s Bokujo Ramen. Both beloved restaurants serve bison — one as a filet, the other as a ramen topping and steamed bun filling.

Just outside those restaurants, there’s an alley between Sixth and Seventh Streets, quite literally dubbed “Art Alley,” though you could assemble an art crawl without seeking out any murals. Simply walk along Main Street to encounter bright paintings, small and large. For a more curated art experience, try Rapid’s Dahl Arts Center, which has free admission.

Rapid City Art Alley

Art Alley Photo: Visit Rapid City

Reptilian Roots

If  larger-than-life murals and life-size presidents don’t cut it for you, how about dinosaur sculptures and a scenic panorama? Overlooking Rapid City, Dinosaur Park features five dinosaur statues, including a brontosaurus that stretches 80 feet tall — the perfect photo opp for families and pretend paleontologists alike. Keeping on theme, the area’s Dinosaur Museum features interactive exhibits and even more dinosaur replicas.

For livelier insight into Rapid City’s critters, look no further than Reptile Gardens. If you’re flying into Rapid, you’ll notice signs advertising this family-friendly attraction, which contains a bald eagle, giant tortoises, and plenty more reptiles, from snakes to lizards to crocodiles. Despite the attraction’s name, your visit doesn’t have to be reptile-centric. You can always bide your time amongst the garden’s orchids and plants.

A Glimmer of Scandinavia

Mount Rushmore may be a symbol of America, but the Chapel in the Hills transports you to Norway. This still active, 1969 church pays homage to Laerdal, Norway’s Borgund Stavkirke, equal parts Scandinavian and spiritual. You can attend a service or simply meander through the chapel and past the ponderosa pines.

If you’re coming from Downtown Rapid, you’ll have to drive to visit the chapel, which is open from May through September. Alternatively, you can take the City View Trolley Tour. “Ollie the Trolley” makes a 30-minute stop at the church, so you’ll have just enough time to embark on a prayer walk.

Chapel in the Hills

Chapel in the Hills Photo: Visit Rapid City

Just Outside the City

While Rapid City contains multitudes, no trip to the Black Hills is complete without getting into those hills. Within the Black Hills National Forest, Sheridan Lake serves as a haven for bird-watching, best explored by kayak. Paddle — or float — as you scour the sky for osprey.

And, of course, for the most adventure-inclined, a hot air balloon ride with Black Hills Balloons is a must. I can only imagine that, from the air, you’ll experience the vantage point of Mount Rushmore’s presidents, peering out, then down, at the Black Hills.

 

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  • WF Anna Staropoli

    Anna Staropoli is a freelance writer. She studied English, creative writing and geography at Dartmouth College. Since then, she’s written for national and international publications, including National Geographic, Food & Wine, and Italy’s La Repubblica.