Exploring the Riches of the Legendary Mekong River

A lifeline uniting six countries, the Mekong River flows from the Himalayas through Southeast Asia. Beginning in Tibet, it traverses China, Myanmar, Thailand, Laos, Cambodia, and Vietnam en route to the broad South China Sea. For thousands of years, the fabled thoroughfare has provided a connection for merchants and traders from China to Southeast Asia.

Interest in river exploration has boomed in the past decade. On this voyage, I chose to focus on two countries in the lower Mekong region with a past inextricably intertwined. My seven-day “Riches of the Mekong” cruise operated between frenetic Ho Chi Minh City and Siem Reap, Cambodia, the gateway to Angkor Wat.

The meandering, open-jaw itinerary aboard the AmaDara with AmaWaterways runs in both directions. My wife and I started in Cambodia and ended in Vietnam, spending a full week exploring Cambodia’s ancient cultures and the secrets of Vietnam’s fecund Mekong Delta.

Stories Unfold From Siem Reap to Ho Chi Minh City

The exotic splendors began in Siem Reap. Our home base for exploring Angkor Wat, the world’s single largest religious building and hub of a vast archaeological park, was the five-star luxury Sofitel Phokeethra Golf & Spa. Our Cambodian guide, Fin, explained that the massive Angkor Wat citadel was a Hindu temple complex before it transitioned to Buddhism in the 10th century. He offered many other snippets of knowledge: “Did you know that the movie Tomb Raider, with Angelina Jolie, was filmed at Ta Prohm Temple?” Fin queried.

We boarded the AmaDara in the river town of Angkor Ban, a four-hour bus ride from Siem Reap. From there, our voyage down the Mekong took us to stopovers that are anything but household names: Oudong, Silk Island, and Ouknhatey Village, Cambodia; Tan Chau, Sa Dec, and Cai Be, Vietnam.

While docked for two nights in the Cambodian capital city of Phnom Penh, we visited the Tuol Sleng Genocide Museum. From 1975 to 1979, under the despotic neo-Marxist rule of General Pol Pot, Khmer Rouge soldiers brutally killed nearly two million Cambodians. Clearly a sad story, but it is a part of history that must be told for a full understanding of modern Cambodia.

Life Aboard the Riverboat 

Founded in 2002, AmaWaterways is deeply passionate about designing outstanding guest experiences. Indeed, the word ama is Latin for “love.” AMA’s promotional slogan, “Oceans take you to countries; rivers take you through them,” reminds me of the beauty of river cruising.

Our boat, the AmaDara , never leaves the Mekong. Launched in 2015, the ship is 302 feet long and 46 feet wide. It transports up to 124 guests along with 52 crew members. Its 62 spacious staterooms and suites on four decks boast twin balconies and air-conditioning. Other highlights include a fitness room, spa, and treatment room. A small souvenir shop sells T-shirts and other items from the region.

The ship’s Saigon Lounge serves as an all-purpose meeting lounge. Briefings of the day’s stopovers, cultural lectures, folklore performances, and cooking demonstrations are daily fare. Singing and dancing often continue well into the night.

Another focal point is the shaded top deck, where guests enjoy AmaDara’s pool with lounge chairs and two bars, and the bridge from which Vietnamese Captain Tuc navigates the AmaDara down the Mekong. The onboard crew includes Hannah from Danang, Vietnam, as the ship’s wellness coach. She provides classes in stretching, core strengthening, and Tai Chi.

The Lux Side of Cruising the Mekong 

French Colonial décor, including rich teakwood-veneer paneling and staircases, along with local art and paintings, brings authentic color to the epic sailing. Stylish corridors guide guests to staterooms and suites. Luxurious cabins feature king-sized beds with cotton bedding. Spacious bathrooms offer glass showers, and suites include a separate Jacuzzi tub. A mini-sofa, writing desk, hair dryer, bathrobe and slippers, flat-screen TV, daily complimentary water, and an in-house telephone round out the roomy guest quarters.

Experiencing the Local Cuisine

Executive Chef Nhan, from Vietnam, and his team of Cambodian and Vietnamese cooks create delicious meals. Besides the extraordinary local fare, Western options are always available for those with less adventurous tastebuds.

Breakfast includes pho, a Vietnamese beef- or chicken-noodle soup with vegetables, lemongrass, and chilies. Local fruit includes mango, jackfruit, papaya, rambutan, dragon fruit, and sapodilla. Homemade pastries, yogurts, and muesli are also at the breakfast buffet. An omelet station serves made-to-order egg dishes. Champagne is available for mimosas. Of course, Vietnamese coffee is among the world’s most flavorful.

Lunch features a variety of freshly baked breads, cold cuts, a wide variety of cheeses, and sandwiches of the day, along with made-to-order pasta, soups, and marinated Asian tuna. Caesar salad, pizza, smash hamburgers, and cheeseburgers are available on the Sun Deck for those craving American fare.

Dinners are like those of a specialty restaurant. A vegetarian option is always available. My favorite meals were the braised lamb shank with balsamic jus, tomato-pepper ragout, and creamy garlic potatoes; and a buttery Hoki fillet with stir-fried Thien Ly flowers, garlic butterfly peas, sticky rice, and a curry shrimp sauce.

Our farewell dinner menu included a surf-and-turf of sirloin steak and crawfish in thyme-shallot red wine or a crispy, melt-in-your-mouth fillet of barramundi and crawfish in cream sauce

Each guest is assigned an intimate evening for an elevated meal at the Chef’s Table — a tasting menu for a limited number of guests. The lavish menu included aged, marbled sirloin steak served with garlic-roasted, creamed potatoes, crispy onion rings, and Asian leaves with a mushroom-and-truffle dressing.

The Pulse of the Mekong

Built for the Mekong River, the AmaDara transports guests into the rhythms of the immense waterway, delivering an unforgettable cultural immersion into life along the lower Mekong. “Please travel the Mekong River with an open mind and an open heart to immerse yourself in local culture,” said A.K., our cruise director from Saigon. “At the end of the day, you will leave us with an unforgettable experience.” Indeed, AmaDara’s Cambodian-Vietnamese crew is nothing short of remarkable, catering to every whim of guests.

The mantra of veteran cruisers is to always be flexible and tolerant. At the heart of AMA’s Mekong passage, it’s about forming a connection with the generous onboard team, including the knowledgeable guides. Those who gain the greatest rewards create new friendships with fellow shipmates, immerse themselves in unique experiences, and, above all, dive headfirst into encounters with curious children practicing their English, with village monks delivering Buddhist blessings, with strolls through food markets and simple villages, with jungle treks and exchanges with talented native artisans. Amawaterways.com

 

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