Barranco: How Lima’s Historic Bohemian Quarters Captured My Heart

I entered Peru via Bolivia – on a boat from Lake Titicaca and then a bus across the border. Peru marked my 40th country visited. At an altitude of 4,000+ meters,  I was riding high and proud of traveling through 40 countries as a solo female traveler. I felt like an old pro, until the altitude really did get to me. But that didn’t stop me from hiking up Rainbow Mountain, getting lost along the winding cobblestone roads of Cusco, and traveling to the town of Ayacucho just for the heck of it. After a 3-day stay in the town of Ica, where I rode on a dune buggy on South America’s biggest sand dunes, I got to meet the Pacific Ocean again in Paracas. But all that is for another time, another post.

Exploring Lima’s Neighborhoods

Lima was my final stop on my Peru itinerary. I remember on my many sunny yet frigid days in Cusco, I’d find myself dreaming of big city life in Lima. When I first started reading about traveling in Lima and all those inevitable blog posts that pop up about the “best neighborhoods to stay in Lima”, I found that most articles highlighted the neighborhoods of Miraflores and Barranco. It seemed to be a battle between the two – about the latest hot takes on whether Miraflores or Barranco is the best part of Lima.

Somewhere in between my time museum-hopping in Centro, quiet afternoon walks in Santiago de Surco, and early morning visits to the Mercado de Surquillo, I got to explore both Barranco and Miraflores. And, being tagged as the more “bohemian” of the two, I instantly became partial to Barranco.

Architecture in Barranco Photo: Jennifer Richardson

Discoveries in Barranco

Founded in the late 1800s, Barranco served as the playground of the city’s aristocrats. The area’s close proximity to the ocean allowed for an exclusive beach resort, as well as a more comfortable climate compared to other parts of the city. For decades, Barranco gained notoriety as artists flocked here to live out their best bohemian life. Come walk with me through Barranco, from morning until the late hours of the night.

Discover the Work of Jade Rivera

One must-stop on my tour of Barranco was Museo Jade Rivera, a museum dedicated to the work and story of Jade Rivera, one of Peru’s most notable visual artists and muralists working today. Depending on which walking route you take to get to the museum, you might see some of his art throughout the neighborhood.

Open every day, this two-floor space displays a collection of some of Rivera’s best work throughout the years. Growing up poor on the outskirts of Lima in the Chorrillos district, Rivera drew inspiration from murals at an early age. He began creating his own art at the age of 14. Rivera’s colorful, eye-catching murals have been displayed around the world, from Barranco and other districts in Peru to Costa Rica and San Diego.

Jade Rivera Mural Photo: Jennifer Richardson

Cross the Bridge of Sighs

After falling in love with Jade Rivera’s art, I took myself on a self-guided tour to see more of his murals scattered throughout Barranco. A few good pieces are located by Barranco’s famous Puente de los Suspiros, or Bridge of Sighs. After circling Barranco a couple of times, I considered this part of the district as the heart of Barranco. Each road here leads to a different and interesting part of the city. From here, you can walk down the steps to the pedestrian-only Bajada de Banos Street to admire even more street art. Keep walking and you’ll reach Barranco Beach, where you can watch the surfers year-round. They truly are committed to their craft, summer or winter.

Shop Local in Dedalo

With so much opportunity for art and working artisans in the country, it’s your prerogative in Peru to buy some good quality items and souvenirs to bring back home. Part shop, part art gallery and café, Dedalo is Lima’s first concept store. Here, discover the work of independent artists and Peruvian brands, and purchase anything from local handicrafts, clothing, and other items made from sustainable materials. On my visit to Dedalo, I bought a shirt made with organic Pima cotton, known as one of the best types of cotton in the world, which comes from Peru.

Vegetarian version of Pechuga a la Parrilla Photo: Jennifer Richardson

BioCafeta – The Place for Local and Low-priced Veggie Eats

I wanted to try as many local dishes as I could in Peru. And, when you’re traveling as a vegetarian, that means a lot of creativity and a bit of flexibility. I cheated a little during my travels in Peru and indulged in real Peruvian ceviche when there wasn’t any other option on a tour. In Barranco, I checked another dish off of my bucket list, but conveniently in veggie form.

Located by the Plaza de Armas, BioCafeta restaurant serves up its take on Peruvian staple dishes made with plant-based ingredients. I ordered a Pechuga a la Parilla, and it was delicious. A glass of hibiscus juice and a soup was included in their “Menu del Dia” for a grand total of 24 soles, making it the best deal in town.

Plaza de Armas – Barranco’s Main Square

The main square of Barranco is the perfect place to get your bearings and people watch day or night. And it makes for a great north star if you find yourself lost. The bright yellow Parroquia La Santisima Cruz church can’t be missed. So, sit on a bench, maybe sip a local Pilsner, and feel like a local limeno.

Plaza de Armas Photo: Jennifer Richardson

Night Life in Juanito de Barranco

A typical Saturday can be date night wherever you are in the world. That’s why a fellow traveler, whom I met a week or two prior in Paracas, and I decided to go on a little pub crawl one weekend when we both found ourselves in Lima at the same time. I’d researched a few of the best spots to go in Barranco beforehand because I always arrive somewhere new armed with knowledge. After enjoying a Pisco sour at a little patio bar, we headed across the Plaza de Armas to Juanito de Barranco, arguably the neighborhood’s most historic bar.

With such a history of artists from all over the world passing through town, it’s no surprise that Juanito de Barranco looks like it has decades of stories to tell. A hand-drawn sketch of the original owners hangs over the long wooden table serving as a bar. The server greeted us with a big smile offering us everything from their famous sangueches, to a glass of vermut, to local beer on tap. We could have stayed for a few more, but the Baranco night beckoned.

This is a glimpse into my tour of Barranco. With something for any and every type of traveler, make sure to add Barranco to your travel bucket list when visiting Lima. A fun time in Barranco is a sure thing and remember, it’s all historic beauty in Barranco.

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