Lake Toba: The Overlooked Jewel of North Sumatra

People tend to skip over Sumatra when they travel to Indonesia. Bali is always their top pick. In North Sumatra lies Lake Toba, a hidden gem that intertwines historical and cultural allure.

A super volcanic eruption created Lake Toba around 74,000 years ago. Over time, a massive landmass coalesced in the lake, forming what we know today as Samosir Island.

Measuring 1,145 square kilometers and 450 meters deep, the lake’s vastness felt like a calm ocean. As the ferry left the pier, the island the size of Singapore loomed on the fog-veiled horizon like a mammoth beast rising out of the water.

Churches and chapels are omnipresent throughout this predominantly Christian island. Photo by Teh Chin Liang

Christianity is Deeply Rooted

Despite Indonesia being a predominantly Muslim country, churches dot Samosir island—by the lake, on hilltops, or next to tall cornfields. On Sundays, Christian hymns echo from the churches, and families dress in their Sunday best. The churches give off an ambiance reminiscent of the Southern United States.

German missionaries introduced Christianity to Samosir in the 19th century. Since then, most of the Batak tribe native to the Lake Toba region have converted to Christianity.

Off the Beaten Tourist Path

Before my trip, most of what I heard about Lake Toba was negative: “The lake is pretty much dead!” “There isn’t much to do there!”

From my guest house in Tuk Tuk, I walked the length of the only street and noticed that many hotels stood dilapidated from years of disrepair or empty of occupants. The guest house owner commented on the business slowdown since the pandemic, but now it is starting to pick up. Most locals visit on weekends, leaving the island mostly void of tourists on the weekdays. But the lack of attention to this lake only made me appreciate it more as an underrated gem.

Explore Samosir Food Scene

Lontong is a traditional rice cake boiled in banana leaves and usually served in a coconut-based turmeric stew with a mix of vegetables and eggs. It is a popular breakfast among the locals.
Arsik Ikan Mas is a popular Batak dish made with carp fish simmered in a spicy, tangy yellow sauce.

The subtropical climate and fertile volcanic soil of the island are perfect for growing premium avocados and mangoes. At the Tomok morning market, piles of fruits line the sidewalk as local women wrapped in loose headscarves eagerly hawk their fresh produce to visitors.

Things to do in Samosir Island

Tomok Village

The highlight of the village is the Tomb of the Sidabutar Kings, one of the earliest Batak rulers. The tombs, dating back over 400 years, are made up of large stone slabs engraved with intricate carvings, with some bearing sphinx-like figures.

For a small fee of IDR 5,000 (about $0.30), you can visit the Tomok Batak Museum in a replica of a Batak house. To enter the museum, I ducked and stooped through a small door barely tall enough for a toddler.

This small museum displays a collection of ancient Batak artifacts, including ulos (traditional woven textiles), wooden statues carved in tribute to ancestors or deities, musical instruments such as the trumpet, and the Hasapi, a two-stringed lute used in religious rituals.

A grandpa and his grandson scraping corn off the cobs, the kernels are ready to be processed into flour. Photo by Teh Chin Liang

Stroll the Lake Shore

In the afternoon, I walked a 3-mile stretch along the shore from Tuk Tuk to Ambarita and discovered the windy shoreline peppered with scenic viewpoints. At the lakeshore, I swooned following the wavy sway of a mass duckweed and shielded my eyes with my hand to take in the emerald-green of the mountain range undulating in the distance like a sprawling fortress of the lake.

As I took in the spectacle, I found myself becoming the object of interest among the locals I brushed shoulders with. A family welcomed me to visit their farm, another invited me in for tea and snacks. And, I stopped by a house to see a grandfather and his grandson scraping kernels from dried corn cobs. The old man pointed me to a pile of corn cobs under the sun. Then, he gestured with his hand that the kernels would soon be processed into corn flour.

Visitors join in a traditional dance at Huta Siallagan. Photo by Teh Chin Liang

Huta Siallagan

An open-air museum hemmed in by stone walls, Huta Siallagan provides a closer look at Batak culture and heritage. Four Rumah Bolon (the traditional Batak house) take center stage at the museum. Elevated on stilts, the house is capped with a long, curved, protruding roof, designed to withstand the gusty lake winds.

Visitors put on an ulos and traditional headscarf to join in a customary dance. I made it in time as the dance began. Participants mimicked the instructor’s moves, giggling and grooving in a circle to the syncopated rhythm of the gong.

At the other end of the museum stood the “Execution Site.” Here the mood took an abrupt turn from the dancing. Visitors flinched as a tour guide raised a prop sword in the air, in a feigned execution, and lowered the blade with all his might to demonstrate beheading in ancient times.

Legend says the Batak tribes practiced cannibalism, believing that eating the flesh of their enemies would strengthen their power.

The Jesus Christ the Savior statue on Sibea Bea Hill is taller than the Christ the Redeemer statue in Rio de Janeiro. Photo by Teh Chin Liang

Sibea Bea Hill

Located in Harian Boho village, Sibea Bea Hill is part of Samosir Regency in North Sumatra. I rode behind my tour guide on a moped, holding my breath at every turn as the landscape changed from one lush, rolling green hills to another, each more breathtaking than the last.

A 61-meter-high Jesus Christ the Savior statue is the new landmark on the hill. People tilted their heads back in reverent awe at its grandeur that adds a touch of sacredness to the serene landscape. This $329K-funded statue draws an influx of pilgrims from Indonesia and abroad to pay homage.

Fun fact: The statue is over 20 meters taller than the world-famous Christ the Redeemer in Rio de Janeiro.

Holbung Hill looks like something out of a dream. Photo by Teh Chin Liang

Holbung Hill

Holbung Hill is another 10-minute drive from the Jesus statue. The hill is also endearingly nicknamed “Teletubbies Hill” due to its landscape resembling the rolling hills where the plush, antenna-wearing characters roam with a constant “uh-oh” in the children’s show.

The hill is an easy 30-minute walk along a grassy switchback trail. The wind tousled my hair and forced me off the trail as I struggled to reach the hilltop. People were having picnics on a bald patch, waiting for the magical sunset that would bathe the hill in a dreamy golden glow.

At the top, sweeping 360-degree views of Lake Toba rewarded me for my effort. In the distance, cloud-capped Pusuk Buhit mountain dwarfed the surrounding hills in imposing supremacy.

How to get to Lake Toba

Silangit Airport is the closest to the lake, although most people fly to Medan and take the train to Pematangsiantar. There a shuttle bus or taxi can get you to the ferry pier in Parapat in about an hour. Alternatively, if you don’t mind slow travel, you can take a bus from Amplas Station in Medan to Parapat that makes multiple stops along the way.

Click here for discounted accommodations near Lake Toba.