Cebu City – Philippines’ Second Metropolis

Although dwarfed by Manila’s staggering 28 million people, Cebu City, the second largest urban center, and its one million proud citizens, have something to say about what’s cool in the Philippines.

The Philippines makes doing more with less a cinch, particularly in expat-friendly Cebu City. Here, the mountains meet the sea, and skyscrapers mingle with one-story structures and everything in between. The locale of this sometimes-congested place means airflow and no smog. There is, however, the prevailing scent of street-grilled food, good-looking street dogs, and Jeepneys galore—the iconic form of public transportation with open-air rear seating originating from repurposed U.S. military jeeps after WWII.

You’ll also encounter a variety of live music venues, guitar shops offering repairs, sales, lessons, and rehearsal space. You’ll also meet the nicest people in the world who’d give their last penny even if it leaves them with nothing. Cultural Cebu City is WAY more than a 24-hour call center! I stayed in two fabulous high-rise hotels. Each had a distinct personality, yet both offered lofty views of the landscape, further demonstrating how locals have instant access to both beach and mountain life. I’ll get to the accommodations after lunch.

An Incredible Bonanza of Extraordinary and Affordable Food Awaits

Filipino food is a rising star, so I got right to it. I relearned how to respect my food’s journey on a Cebu City cuisine crusade with foodie-vlogger Carlo Olano’s Kalami. On this delicious five-stop food tour, we visited restaurants that were either Michelin-selected or Michelin Bib Gourmand-rated, celebrating ultra-affordable dining excellence that fits a local budget.

Esmen Carenderia’s porcupine-fish soup is a delicious concoction that is wood-fired in huge woks, simmering fish chunks in a broth, melding lemongrass, ginger, black beans, vinegar, chilis, and other veggies. This down-to-earth, smoky, open-air roadside gem offers an authentic Filipino culinary experience that’s also reasonably priced at $2.

Abaseria’s eggplant (chili adobong talong marinated in spicy chili adobo) is the best that I’ve ever tasted. Their monggo soup also dazzles with a coconut-milk broth infused with mung beans, spinach, and tomatoes. This former suburban home initially transitioned into a local crafts store, which also serves classic homestyle Filipino dishes, including meats and seafood. This place can also stand alone as a vegetarian’s dream.

More Culinary Delights

Pares Batchoy Food House serves up a sizzling scallop medley and their signature ramen-style beef-stewish soup. And, as usual in the Philippines, you’ll find an incredibly friendly and helpful staff.

The popular Michelin-Selected House of Lechon (roast pork) exudes a festive atmosphere that mingles locals and in-the-know expats. I sampled the savory pork but dove into dessert mode with some soft-serve purple yam (the root crop), a vanilla-like ice cream along with some naturally violet-colored rice cakes sprinkled with shredded coconut and raw brown sugar. This spacious diner-like icon offers all of the revered Filipino meals.

Cebu City’s Sugbo Mercado provides a delightful outdoor 76-stall food court. The offerings include food that is 70-percent Filipino with the rest international. Located in a huge green space in the center of Cebu City’s IT Park, this gem sits in the part of town that hosts the 24-hour call centers that connect you to friendly Filipinos every week.

I dined with its marketing guru, Michael Karlo Lim, who, in 10 years, has turned a dream into a grand slam that serves 120,000 visitors per month. You’ll find every imaginable Filipino favorite from oysters to juices to desserts, as well as Korean, Indonesian, Taiwanese, Mexican, and Croatian delights. Two cocktail bars and an entertainment stage further enhance the family-style picnic table setting. I sampled the hits from Sea Monster, Sugbowa, Steak Spot, and Mr. Bones. The waste here becomes pig feed.

Quest Hotel – One of Two Fabulous Cebu City Hotels

Cebu City’s likeable Quest Hotel is busy, safe, affordable, and international. It’s also nicely broken in. The lobby provides an ever-present showcase of what’s happening downtown. Its 427 well-appointed rooms share a splash of nifty 1970s decor. Their reasonably priced in-room spa and massage services dovetail nicely with the hip, urban outdoor pool scene, which features a swim-up bar and great city views. You can also get massages in the pool’s cabana. The all-inclusive breakfast buffet won’t disappoint, either.

The hotel is conveniently located across the street from the Ayala Center shopping and entertainment mall. It provides a reprieve from noisy street life, offering toil-free rambling, street-style bargains, and great people-watching—with AC. In an otherwise quiet back corner of the sprawling, multi-level otherworld, The Social is a lively café-bar and live-music hangout that features great bands nightly. Locals sing their hearts out here, as music is everywhere. At the lowest level of this mall is a supermarket, where a stage hosts live musical performances.

Unique Lodging and More at Cebu City’s Radisson Blu

I took it up several notches and also stayed at Cebu City’s Radisson Blu on the outer, quieter fringe of downtown that allows city center and marine views from your spacious, plush room. The key word here is grandeur, which is initiated by its sky-high lobby screaming grand entrance every time you show up. This place means swank everything, but with a down-to-earth staff that blends stylish comfort with thoughtful service. The 20th floor VIP lounge is fantastic, but just being anywhere in this hotel means a five-star experience. VIP “business class” status includes daily cocktails and divine appetizers from 5 till 7. Their nightly, top-notch live musician featured in the lobby is played at a volume that allows everyone around to continue their conversations. Luxury reigns here, from the spa to the 400 rooms and suites, to the handsome lobby bar.

Feria, the hotel’s seemingly endless eye-candy restaurant, had the best gourmet buffet cuisine options of my travel-writing career. The lunch stations included Indian, Mediterranean, Japanese, Filipino, and Chinese—plus salad, bread, drinks, and dessert stations. The sprawling breakfast buffet goes unmatched, and the dinner buffet includes a pour-your-own wine option. In an otherwise urban setting, the property’s backyard refuge has a bar, grass, trees, hammocks, and lounge chairs.

The Radisson Blu highlights Filipinos advancing their careers—humble, hard-working people who share a constant life-is-good vibe. And this constant is further exemplified next door at the SM City mall, a minute away on foot and with everything. Here, I enjoyed a five-stage haircut process, including two wash-and-dries by an assistant who stood nearby the stylist, for $8. Also, the professional-in-the-know concierge at Radisson Blu suggested I enjoy some live music at the nearby Tavern, which had plenty of epic talent on stage. The Philippines is a musician factory, and Cebu City is no exception.

Nightlife—Your Way

While at the Radisson, I also stopped by Verify, a disco-like bar-club that didn’t work for me. So, I ventured afoot a few blocks away and landed at Wanie’s Silogan, a street-dining and drinking joint in Sitio Nangka, an original low-rise subdivision neighborhood of mostly one-story buildings that’s holding out on the big developers’ plan for more urban uprising. This actual old city center still has a classic Filipino big-family orientation, as everyone knows everyone. I was invited to join a table of locals outdoors for beverages, and we shared life stories late into the night. Organic streetside hospitality, squared.

Finally, my favorite non-hotel hangout became Social Park Avenue for outdoor live pop and rock music with a breeze. The more organic non-mall version, both owned by the same guy, lures seasoned expats and enthusiastic locals. The Filipino-born owner, uber-cool Phil Yieh, lived in Queens, NY, from 12 until 55. The venue regularly features a powerful quartet called Aeon Rock. This husband-guitarist and wife-singer-led band is arena-rock ready. Likewise, everything Cebu City does and represents deserves an arena-style standing ovation. Find your bliss in Cebu City and discover more reasons to Love the Philippines.

 

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