Chinese Valentine’s Day in Penang: Blind Dates of a Bygone Era

The Esplanade in Penang, Malaysia, is a historic seafront promenade that defines the character of the city’s colonial past. A long granite seawall spans from the whitewashed Neo-Classical City Hall from one end to the cannon-bastioned Fort Cornwallis at the other.

Every year, on the 15^th day of the Lunar New Year, the promenade turns into a massive festive ground for Chap Goh Meh celebration, also known as the Chinese Valentine’s Day.

On this day, a swelling human tide forms along the sea wall, many clad in traditional Chinese red. Boxes of mandarin oranges line the length of the wall. Many people hold an orange in their hand, ready for action.

The Celebration Begins

The festival organizer stands on the wall, a whistle in his mouth, his hand ready to come down on three, “One, two, three… go!”

And just like that, a volley of oranges cannons out into the sea. The citrus‑tangerine orbs land with a plop and ride the ripples across the water. The air smells of tangy citrus.

Those new to the scene might be wondering, “What is going on here? Why do you people dump the fruits into the sea?”

Looking for Love

Chinese Valentine’s Day is not all about roses and chocolates. It is also a day when singles go out looking for love. In the late imperial era, gender segregation was the norm in traditional Chinese society. Women were expected to stay at home and were forbidden to meet men.

One of the rare occasions when women were allowed to leave the house was the 15th day of the Lunar New Year, also known as the Lantern Festival.

In the evening, rows of lanterns lit up the village. Through the flickering glow of lanterns, single women pretended to take in the lights, but their eyes were on the men they had a crush on.

Women in the Southeast Asian Chinese diaspora were much bolder. They found a way beyond the lanterns, taking their fate out to the sea, rivers, or lakes. This practice emerged in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. In Chinese belief, mandarin oranges represent auspiciousness and sweetness, all qualities that make a perfect metaphor for a romantic relationship.

On the shore, women wrote their names and wishes on a small red slip of paper tied to the orange, then launched it towards the water. The orange hit the water, bobbed up to the surface, drifted downstream, and landed in a fishing net held by a man standing on a boat.

The man scooped up the orange, and if he liked what he saw in the smudged, waterlogged ink tethered to the orange, he would reach out to the woman. Next, the blind date began—or better yet, the beginning of a journey to a happy ending.

A Tradition for Generations

Passed down for generations, the tradition continues to evolve. Nowadays, the orange-tossing custom is open to everyone, no longer exclusive to single women. Couples toss oranges, praying for a stable relationship. Families do it for good fortune, and young people take viral photos and videos for social media.

In Penang, the Chap Goh Meh celebration helps preserve local heritage. In addition to the main orange-tossing event, there are other activities such as lantern riddles. Each riddle is tied to the tail of the lantern. It could be a word puzzle or a brain teaser. People walk beneath the lanterns and try to solve each riddle as they go.

Parade floats trundle past the promenade carrying people in Peranakan costume. Peranakans are descendants of Chinese immigrants who married locals. The intricate embroidery on their Malay kebayas pairs beautifully with the colorful batik sarongs. The crowd waves and cheers at them, and they reciprocate with a sway of their shoulders and arms in the traditional Malay “Joget” dance to classic Malay songs from a speaker.

The floats roll away, the music fades, and the pounding drums in a large field behind the promenade grow louder. A lion dance is in full swing. The dancers leap from one pole to another in choreographed acrobatic stunts.

The drums then slow for the final act. The crowd holds its breath for the climax.  Then, in one quick lunge, the head dancer snatches the lettuce hanging overhead, legs bend in midair as flashes of cameras follow him all the way to his landing.

An Ending Filled with Hope

The night ends with a fireworks show. The orange tossing continues, the plopping of oranges landing in the water syncopating with the cacophony of the crowd and the explosion of fireworks.

Women walk away, hoping someone will pick their oranges. Men wonder who the orange in their hands will lead them to. There is a sense of excitement in the mystery, a throwback to simpler days. No Tinder apps, no swiping, no cringey profiles, just uncomplicated matchmaking playing out the good old-fashioned way.

 

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